Six alternatives for egg white in cocktails
Egg whites have played a role in bar culture for centuries, primarily because of their ability to add creaminess to a drink. In recent years, more and more egg white alternatives have been used in cocktails. Do they come close to the original? We show you six popular alternatives from aquafaba to methyl cellulose.
When it comes to textures in cocktails, there’s not much that comes close to a light, fluffy, creamy sour. A Whiskey Sour, for example, is probably one of those cocktails that even most bar laymen could list. The success of one of the “Ur-Cocktails,” besides its ingenious simplicity, is probably primarily due to its texture. This is classically brought about by the use of egg whites. In addition, the egg white, due to its fat and protein content, enhances the flavor of the individual ingredients and makes the result taste “smoother”, less edgy.
In recent years, some bartenders have now tried their hand at finding suitable replacements for the deserving cocktail ingredient egg white. With the short shelf life (at least for unpasteurized egg whites), the movement away from animal and towards plant-based products, or sheer curiosity, or a desire for innovation, there are various motives for this venture. So far, none of its competitors has outstripped egg white long term. What are substitute products used in bars around the world, how do they work, and how good are they? A self-test:
1) Aquafaba
The classic egg white substitute – Aquafaba – is chickpea water. That is, the liquid in which chickpeas are preserved when you buy them pre-cooked in a jar. It is often used in vegan cooking as a protein substitute and works wonderfully in vegan chocolate mousse and the like. The high protein content helps achieve a soft fluffiness that is otherwise only achieved when using egg whites. So why not try it in an egg white-free whiskey sour?
For this test, we used aquafaba in the same amount we would have added egg white, first shaken dry and then with ice. As with any Sour, long, wides shake movements are recommended to submerge as much air as possible into the liquid. The result looks visually like a classic whiskey sour. A nice creamy and fluffy foam graces the sour glass. However, upon taking a sample sip (one of the upsides of cocktail journalism), a rather distinctive chickpea flavor can be detected. Aquafaba has a relatively high salt content, (which is not bad per se, as salt solution is now an integral part of many cocktails) but also a fairly strong taste. In the second attempt, we use a little less aquafaba, squeeze an orange zest over the drink and add a drop of Angostura as a garnish. The orange zest and Angostura help to make the smell more pleasant. Also, in terms of taste, the second attempt is better. Not quite as fluffy, but also less chickpea flavor. After a few sips, however, one has also become somewhat more accustomed to this and you have a solid whiskey sour.
2) Silken Tofu
While researching online for suitable protein substitutes, ( Ok Ok, yes we asked ChatGPT for suggestions ) we were suggested to try silk tofu. This is also used in (vegan) cuisine, often as a protein substitute and has relatively little flavor of its own. Especially, in Asian dishes, silken tofu, due to its creaminess, is an often found component. Well then, let’s try it: A tablespoon of it in the shaker, crush it a bit with the spoon, dry shake, wet shake and strain. The result: a sour that, unfortunately, you wouldn’t even want to serve to your least favorite guests. No foam, small pieces of tofu floating helplessly around in the sour glass, and also in terms of flavor the Tofu Sour leaves a poor impression. Even after adjusting the recipe and using only half a tablespoon, the result does not improve. Oh well, we tried it. Thanks for nothing ChatGPT…
3) Coconut cream
High fat content, lots of protein and no unpleasant taste of its own – coconut cream has everything you want for a suitable protein substitute. So in the next attempt we add a tablespoon to the rest of the ingredients of the sours (this time a Mezcal Sour – even cocktail writers need a change every now and then…) and the good news first: Mezcal and coconut – it fits! Some more good news: there is a nice foam! The not-so-good news: the foam falls in fairly quickly and the drink flocculates, which is not good for the look of the Sour. In addition, now and then, you find some small pieces of coconut cream in the mouth. So the approach is good, but the implementation is not satisfactory. However, there are many different types of coconut cream. It mighte be worthwhile to conduct some more tests with other products …
4) Soy Lecithin
Now that we’ve covered some of the more obvious products that you’ll find in most supermarkets, let’s move on to the more specific ones that you’ll need to visit a specialty food store for. We’ll start with soy lecithin. Soy Lecithin is a natural emulsifier and stabilizer derived from soybeans. Its properties as both hydrophilic and hydrophobic at the same time help to combine substances that normally cannot be combined. Water and oil, for example. In the culinary industry, lecithin has many different functions, but is mainly used as a stabilizer and emulsifier for sauces (salad dressings, mayonnaise, etc.) or to improve textures. For example, it makes sauces and ice cream creamier. Since all this sounds very appropriate for our purposes, we mix 1/8 teaspoon into our next sour (we’re back to the whiskey sour – we don’t want to mix too many spirits – it´s a working day after all). The result shows a quite creamy Sour, which impresses especially by its velvety mouthfeel. Also, this creaminess lasts for a very long time. However, it does not come close to the (egg white) original in terms of fluffiness. If you increase the dose of lecithin, the foam increases a bit, but the taste of the lecithin also increases disproportionately to the more of foam you receive, which results in an unsatisfactory taste. All in all, it is a nice and fresh Sour, though!
5) Methyl Cellulose
This is a chemical component obtained from cellulose, i.e. the cell walls of plants. In gastronomy, methyl cellulose, similar to lecithin, is mainly used as an emulsifier or as a thickener. This sounds promising, so we add a quarter teaspoon to our drink. Again, the result is a very creamy, silky drink. However, you probably wouldn’t call it really frothy. Also, as with all other attempts ( except perhaps when using aquafaba) the “fatty” egg white texture is missing. However, the mouthfeel is quite pleasant and appealing. In addition, the methyl cellulose has little flavor of its own.
6) Xanthan gum
Is a polysaccharide that belongs to the type of carbohydrates. Xanthan gum as well is commonly used as a thickener and stabilizer. We put an eighth of a teaspoon in the shaker, shake (again dry and wet) and strain the drink. (As with lecithin and Methyl Cellulose, ideally you should weigh the powder with a fine scale, as a small amount will yield remarkable results, since not every bar is equipped with one, here is the figure in teaspoons). When straining, it is noticeable that some lumps that have not dissolved properly remain stuck in the fine strainer. The drink itself, has a little more creaminess than without substitute, but we are not really satisfied. Even with smaller and larger quantities, the results are not more promising. Maybe it helps to dissolve the xanthan gum in water first to avoid clumping? It does indeed, but you would have to do it à la minute and that would definitely take too much time in a full bar.
Conclusion
We conclude the test series with mixed results. None of the protein substitutes was completely convincing. Aquafaba made the best impression when used correctly. Tofu certainly is not recommended. The more „experimental“ products soy lecithin, methyl cellulose and xanthan gum have partly shown good approaches. However, these clearly lack the “fatty” component that protein brings into play. However, the mouthfeel and consistency over time were quite interesting.
What would happen if some of these substitutes were used in combination? The creaminess of coconut with longer lasting foam from methyl cellulose. This cries out for a continuation of the series of experiments soon….
Credits
Foto: Rabizo Anatolii - stock.adobe.com